Epoxy and polyurethane injection for cracked walls and slabs. Carbon fiber for walls that are bowing. Free inspection first.
A crack in your foundation is the house talking. The direction it runs, how wide it is, and whether it's grown since spring tell us most of what we need to know before we ever pull out a tape. About half the cracks we look at in Tulsa are cosmetic. The other half are the clay under the house moving, and those don't fix themselves. The trick is knowing which one you've got before you pay anybody to fill it.
Tulsa sits on smectite clay over shale. It swells when the spring storms come through and shrinks when August bakes it. The cracks that cycle leaves behind follow patterns we see over and over.
Up and down, usually in a poured wall or along a slab edge. Most of these are shrinkage from when the concrete cured. They're hairline, evenly spaced, and stop short of the top and bottom of the wall. Cosmetic. A vertical crack becomes a problem when it widens past a quarter inch, runs the full height of the wall, or one side sticks out further than the other. We saw a wave of those after the 2015 floods, when swollen clay pushed footings up unevenly.
Side to side, usually in a basement or stem wall. This is the one to worry about. Horizontal means the soil outside is pushing in and the wall can't push back. After a wet month the clay against a basement wall swells, the wall cracks, and then it starts to bow. These don't heal. They get worse. If you can lay a four foot level against the wall and see daylight in the middle, call us this week, not next month.
The zigzag along the mortar joints in brick or block. One corner of the footing has dropped relative to the rest, and the brick cracked along the mortar because mortar is weaker than brick. We see these on older brick in Brookside, Maple Ridge, and the neighborhoods near downtown, usually on the south or west corner that dried out fastest in the 2011 drought. A hairline stair step that hasn't moved in five years is probably done moving. One that's wider at the top with fresh mortar dust at the base is still going.
Running at 30 to 45 degrees from the corner of a window or door toward the ceiling. Part of the foundation is settling while the rest stays put, and the crack follows the weakest point, the corner of the opening. On exterior brick, the crack points toward the corner that's dropping. One short diagonal in drywall above a door is usually dried out mud. A diagonal that runs through the brick, matches a crack on the inside of the same wall, and grows over a few months is real movement.
Width is the first test. Around a sixteenth of an inch, about the edge of a dime, is the line between hairline and something that needs attention. But width alone doesn't settle it. We look at four more things:
If it's cosmetic, we'll tell you so. If it's structural, the repair depends on what's causing it, and sometimes crack repair is step two after piers or drainage. We won't inject a crack on a corner that's still dropping and call it fixed. It'll open back up by next August.
Both methods push a liquid into the crack under pressure through ports we set every 8 to 12 inches along its length. What goes in the crack is the difference.
Epoxy is structural glue. It cures harder than the concrete around it and welds the two sides of the crack back into one piece. We use it on dry cracks in poured walls and slabs where the goal is to restore strength: a vertical crack that's stopped moving, or a slab crack that needs to carry load again. Epoxy needs a dry crack to bond and takes several hours to cure. It doesn't flex, so if the crack is still moving, epoxy will crack again right next to the old line.
Polyurethane is a flexible foam that expands when it hits moisture. It's the right call for cracks that leak, cracks that are damp when we get there, and cracks that open and close a little with the seasons. It seals water out and stretches with small movement instead of fighting it. It isn't structural. A poly injected crack is sealed, not strengthened.
Rule of thumb: epoxy for strength on a dry, stable crack. Poly for waterproofing on a wet or slightly active one. Sometimes we do both, poly first to stop the water, then epoxy once the wall has dried out.
Most Tulsa homes sit on a slab or a crawl space, but there are real basements in the older parts of Maple Ridge and Midtown. Those walls take the full push of saturated clay every spring. When one cracks horizontally and starts to bow, injection won't hold it.
Carbon fiber straps are the standard fix for a wall with less than about two inches of bow. We grind the wall surface, epoxy the straps vertically every 4 feet or so, and anchor them top and bottom. Once cured, the carbon fiber is stronger than steel in tension and about as thick as a credit card. No excavation, no lost floor space, and you can paint over it. Walls that have moved further than that need wall anchors or steel beams, and a structural engineer signs off on the design.
Those are injection and reinforcement numbers. If the crack turns out to be a symptom of settlement, the real fix is piers, and the crack gets sealed after the lift. Start with a free inspection and you'll have a written answer either way.
For a cosmetic hairline, yes. Polyurethane or silicone caulk keeps water and bugs out. Just know that caulk is a surface patch. It doesn't bond the crack or stop the wall from moving, so if the crack keeps growing past the caulk, you've learned something and it's time to call.
That's Tulsa clay doing its thing. It shrinks in the August heat and swells when the rain comes back. A crack that cycles a little each year is normal here. A crack whose swing gets wider every year is a drainage problem on its way to becoming a pier problem.
No. Injection fixes the crack, not the soil. If the footing is still dropping, the crack will reopen right beside the repair. That's why we measure the floor first. If the house is still moving, piers come first and injection comes after.
Usually not when the cause is soil movement, which covers most Tulsa cracks. Some policies do cover damage from a sudden plumbing leak under the slab. If you think a leak is involved, get the engineer's report before you file the claim.
Most single cracks take two to four hours. Epoxy needs several more hours to cure before it carries load. Polyurethane is sealed the same day. You stay home the whole time.
Related: Foundation repair | Helical piers | Crack types and what they mean | Signs of foundation trouble
We come look, you get a written quote. No pressure.